Adventure Italy
JTandPC, September 2003
Arrival into Rome at sunrise was on schedule and the transfer to the train uneventful. With the Lonely Planet (LP) as our trusty guide and camera at the ready we set off for a fortnight in Italy - what fun, pasta, sidewalk coffees, chianti, gelatis, history and culture, all before noon, ha ha ha!!!!,
The broad plan was to have a day in Florence with a mission to replace Jan’s handbag. Then head off through the rolling hills of Tuscany to coastal Cinque Terra, the majestic Lake Como, Dolomites, Venice and on to the Amelfi coast before checking out St Peters and returning home.
Accommodation in Florence was our only booking. Being early September the European holiday rush was over so we were confident of finding places along the way. A combination of web sites, e-mail addresses, phone numbers and the trusty LP guide book plus some rapidly learned local knowledge along the way resulted in an amazing array of accommodations many of which were medieval buildings with breathtaking views of mountains, vineyards, lakes and the sea.
We took the train to Florence then hired a car. With a map of Italy supplementing the LP, our navigator was set for an intense on-the–job training exercise. We dropped the car off in Venice and for the rest of the trip we used trains and buses, which gave our navigator a reprieve, think Peter mentioned 101 Navigation for Girls.
Florence
Travelling north with clear blue sky soon saw us into the Tuscany countryside with endless grapevines manicured into the gently coloured rolling hills and a scattering of delightful villages. A short taxi ride to our vintage B and B by the river just below Michelangelo Plaza and we were into an afternoon of strolling through the narrow streets absorbing the culture. An Italian lunch of scaloppini and pasta complete with Chianti provided energy for the escapade. It was great, we realised ”Wonderful” we are in Italy.
Plazas, Duomo, the statue of David, Ponte Vecchio, the high street shops, art galleries and the river. We saw them all and wondered in the ancient beauty of every building stone, wooden doorway and the rings on the walls where horses were tied.
Being Sunday, Louis Vitton, Bvlgari, Chanel etc on the high street were closed. (How sad !!!!) However the leather shops were all open and ready to receive Jan. All catered for tourists. Some catered for serious handbag shoppers and the owners were quick to identify Jan. Each had a dedicated floor for handbags with 1,500 to 2,000 bags. We looked at the lot !! After checking 15,000 bags I figured we were doomed, but one popped out of the woodwork and it was just right. Well almost, it exceeded the budget by a wide margin; but the option of looking at another 15,000 bags was too daunting. So Jan now has a stylish bag from Florence and is delighted. Mission accomplished!! . Peter was terrific, patient and joined in with the selection. Actually by the third shop, Peter had sorted out the differences with styles, quality and razzle dazzel.
Dinner was pizza in the park by the river just across the square from our room. With a top bottle of Clare Valley Riesling, a treat received en route, we settled down with our goodies on a park bench overlooking the river to Michelangelo Plaza. Out of the blue an Italian Moma MaMia appeared with a table and insisted we use it. Just a taste of the hospitality extended to us throughout our stay. Dinner was great. Then with an early night and a long sleep, we were ready for our Italian Adventure.
Tuscany
Abandoning public transport we picked up a small car and set off on the highways and byways of Tuscany.
First stop was the old walled, car free, city of Sienna. A long narrow winding road up a steep hill led to the car park, then through the pedestrian only gate and a walk along narrow lanes took us past numerous gelatarias in 700 year old buildings to the town plaza. Centuries of history surrounded by stone buildings the elliptical plaza slopes down to an amphitheatre which is now filled daily with tourists. On occasions the local orchestra charms the throng with chamber music and operas
We retraced our steps through the narrow streets and lanes to retrieve the car and move on to San Gimignano, a famous small Tuscan village from medieval times. Another walled car free village on the top of a hill, we were permitted to drive through the narrow streets and gates to drop our luggage off at the hotel door. The car park is on the side of a hill and a set of stairs took us back to the narrow pathways which all wind up to the central plaza.
Several hundreds of years old, the hotel is in the town square by the well. We picked it from the Lonely Planet and made the reservation by e-mail!!! There was an unexpected “wow factor” when we opened the shutters !! The vista was vineyards and soft rolling hills away to the horizon, just like the postcards. We knew we were in Tuscany. From the end of the corridor another window looked over the village wall, across the fertile valleys to the distant mountains.
From a small café in the plaza and sipping an espresso (great coffee) we soaked up the atmosphere of the towers and arches of this medieval village as the sun set. Then off down the alleyways to the recommended restaurant for some local delicacies and wines. Following a glass of top local spumante we had the wild boar with onions and the duck with potatoes. Chianti from the neighbouring valley was the choice. Our taste buds were tantalised.
Next morning we were up early and walked around the lanes and pathways to the top of the wall. The narrow vertical slots used to shoot arrows at invaders provided an interesting view of the Tuscan countryside with grapevines, olive trees, cut hay and some ploughed fields. As the village came to life vans delivered their provisions to the various shops and restaurants. By far the largest was the gelati truck. How the driver navigated the narrow lanes and gates is beyond belief. As the hordes of day tourists ascended the pathways we moved on.
Cinque Terra
Travelling west to the coast near Pisa we traded the byways for the autostrade to La Spieza and then back onto narrow lanes to the “Cinque Terra”, one of the most amazing parts of the world. A travel article described it as having one of the global top ten walks. The Lonely Planet confirmed it as an area of fascination and intrigue dating back a millenium. We were not disappointed. Spread along 25 kilometres of coast line 100 km east of Genoa there are five villages on the sea and hundreds of acres of terraced vineyards on the steep slopes of the 500 metre high hillsides. A walking track links the villages as does the main train line from Genoa to Florence and local ferries. Most of the trail line is in tunnels. Express train riders see nothing of the area. A local train takes tourists from one village to the next and we used this to return from a walk and a ferry ride.
Originally settled a thousand years ago the villages were built on what little flat land could be found with some form of port to provide access by sea. The terraced vineyards came in the 1500’s.
We opted to take the LP recommendation and stay at Vernazza, the smallest and most attractive of the five towns, another car free village. Population 1100. Arriving late in the afternoon and with the LP advice that there were many rooms available to rent we rang a few doorbells and managed to find a room in the centre of the village opposite the bakery. Quite spacious and clean it was at the top of 48 steep steps, cash only and run by Ticco, who turned to be one of Vernazza’a colourful businessmen. The village is right on the sea with a small harbour and beach and about a 100 square meter patch of flat ground. The old buildings are all several storeys high, full of steep steps and perched on the steeper hill side around the sea. Following drinks on a rock at sun set we dined on the freshest seafood and pasta, with local red wine. Superb.
Next morning we were up at sunrise and walked the 5 km from Vernazza to Cornoglio. From the village square we climbed hundreds of steps to the start of the track. Along and upward, past cliffs and steep hillsides with terraced vineyards, olive trees and tomato plants the views up and down the coast were superb in the early morning light. Past a remote farmhouse where the owners were on the balcony meditating as they gazed over the Mediterranean Sea. From a high point of 250 meters the track began to descend to the village and down to the rail track. After a two hour walk we arrived in time for the 0830 train with a 3 minute ride back to Vernazza and breakfast. Then a ferry ride to Riomagglio, the fifth village. The views of the terraced hillsides and old villages are splendid. No wonder the walk is rated as one of the ten best. The village harbour shelters the local fishing fleet and the odd luxury boat, and is surrounded by the village square and some art galleries (where the order of the day was: check our website and yes we deliver to anywhere in the world !!). The walk along the cliff track back to Manorola is called Lovers Lane and is worthy of its rating as one of the best walks. This track rises only 50 metres above the sea and is no more than 10 metres back from the shore line, an indication of the steepness of the cliff line. The lunch spot was on a table cantilevered out over the azure sea. We took the train back to Vernazza and were intrigued to see a musician complete with double bass. It turned out he, the violinist and clarinet player were travelling minstrels and spent the afternoon in Vernazza entertaining diners at the various outdoor restaurants and cafes.
Lake Como
The autostrasse to Genoa was exciting as lack of land dictated a narrow road width. Slow moving trucks filled the outer lane and keeping up with the cars on the inner lane meant taking on the role of a formula one driver. Views were minimal as most of the time is in tunnels. Bypass Genoa and over the hills (more tunnels) and onto the plains for a more relaxed but nevertheless speedy ride on the wider road to Lake Como. The LP recommended the west side of the lake and one of the smaller towns. We chose Menaggio. This turned out a good decision as all the road signs mentioned this town. However the road along the lake is no highway. It hardly passes as a byway. A narrow winding road through many small towns and villages it did not take long to put the adventure back into motoring. From time to time the road got even narrower and avoiding contact with vehicles going in the opposite direction required more nerve than skill.
About half way along Lake Como, Menaggio is a picturesque town right on the lake with a backdrop of steep hills. Across the lake the mountains of the Dolomites beckon. We walked along the foreshore to seek some accommodation. The five star Grand Hotel with its magnificent gardens and opulent verandahs looked full so we pressed on. Opposite the jetty was a charming hotel (2 star) with a vacancy sign. Yes there was a room with a balcony overlooking the lake. Wonderful. Settled in and with a few drinks on the balcony the sunset was great. Next morning the lake was calm and truly majestic. Fisherman casting rods and ferrymen getting their vessels fired up for the day amid energetic locals exercising and tourists just taking it all in. The walkway behind the hotel had a stone tablet on the wall which was inscribed some time in the first century. Mounted on the ancient church wall we reflected on the Roman history.
The steep rocky hillsides behind Menaggio are topped with grass meadows and grazing cattle. Small villages are perched up high, each complete with its own church.
Dolomites
With Lake Como in the rear view mirror, we took the right hand option at the junction to St Moritz, which was 50 km to the north. Upward and eastward we ascended into the ski towns located at various passes in the Dolomites. The mountains reach another 1,000 meters through the glaciers to the sky. Numerous ski lifts from tee bars to cable cars had all slopes covered. The runs were mostly blue and black and looked good. With the scarcity of pink runs, Jan was somewhat relieved it was summer time.
Countless hairpin bends and several spectacular valleys later we arrived at the town of Madonna di Campiglio. Recommended by the LP this most spectacular village hosted the World Ski Championships some years ago. With assistance from the local Alpine office we had a guide to the walks and accommodation in the village. A reconnoitre of two laps around the village let us suss out our first pick, a nice Tyrollean style pension near to the town centre. Knocked on the door and yes, one night is fine. We settled in and had a few drinks on the balcony watching the sun set on the 3,000 meter peaks across the valley and above the pine trees. Even at the end of summer the town was busy.
Next morning after a hearty breakfast we were ready to tackle a walk in the Dolomites. The weather was inclement. Undaunted we set off and took the gondola car to the top of the first level, about 700 meters above the village. We chose to walk down the south side track and absorb the mountain vistas.
Clouds swept in and views became infrequent. When we did get a break it was all worthwhile. The rocky upper slopes start at the base of the cliffs then turn into grassed meadows of the alp which down lower gives way to pine trees.
Over one crest the sounds of 100 bells rang out, each with a different pitch and each attached to the neck of a cow. The herd was relocating to greener pastures. The track swung around and the village came into view at the base of the valley; quite spectacular. We pressed on down the steep track through pine tree glades, over small creeks and grateful we had taken the gondola car to the top.
Verona
The LP had interesting comments about Verona, a retreat for Romans two millenniums ago. Stay in the centre it said and even recommended “a place”. So we followed the signs to “centro”, parked the car and found “the place”. But alas, no rooms. Plan B was the local hotel booking agency across from the Arena. We managed to get a small room in a hotel just outside the city wall.
On check in the receptionist enquired if we had come for the opera at the Arena. No wonder the town was booked out. There was nothing in the LP about the opera. However the courtesy bus was leaving in 40 minutes and the receptionist was confident we could get tickets. So, opera it was.
Cleaned up and on the bus for the 2 km ride to the city centre; we found the ticket office in the lower level of the Arena and managed two unreserved seats on the stepping stones. Start time was in 20 minutes. Assured we could get some dinner inside we were advised to take our seats.
What an amazing place. Built 2,000 years ago, but unlike the Colosseum, the Arena is in pristine condition and is used each year for the Opera season. Running from June through August about four Operas are performed five nights a week.
Tonight was Carmen. We were shown to places on the second but top row of stepping stones. Each step is about half a meter high and our seats are fifty meters above the stage. The base of the Arena is the size of a football field and the outer perimeter is similar in size to modern day stadiums. All built without cranes, hard hats or shop stewards !! A fellow came around with a bucket full of rolls and beer. We took a ham roll and two cans of Fosters. Yes, Fosters !!
With the twilight gone and a full house, the orchestra commenced the overture and the show began. A cast of hundreds including horses and donkeys were in fine form under the stars. The acoustics were great. Apart from the odd plane returning on the home track just overhead there were no interferences.
Venice
Dropped the car off and walked across the plaza to the ferry terminal. We took the 90 minute Grand Canal option to travel to St Mark’s Square.
With all stops and a slow ride between each wharf we had plenty of time to absorb the activity on and about the Grand Canal. Old warehouses, hotels, art galleries, churches, the markets and all manner of watercraft from luxury speedboats to barges, ferries and gondolas galore made for a scenic and interesting ride which took well over an hour.
Disembarking at St Marks a stroll across the crowded square led to our hotel just one laneway back from the cathedral and next to MacDonald’s!! A small one star hotel with a newly renovated air conditioned room, we found it fine. One star means no eating facilities so we dined out for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Being in the heart of tourist Venice we were not far from the crowds during the day, but by evening the neighbourhood was superb. Cafes and restaurants abound as do small hotels, Venetian glass and art galleries plus honest looking African men selling “Luis Vitton” bags from fold-up quick get away sheets. The prices asked were a lot lower than we saw in the High Street. It’s a mystery !!!
This evening we took a chilled bottle of Charles Heidseck to the Ponte dei Sospiri, a delightful bridge behind St Marks. Armed with a slice of pizza and some glasses borrowed from the hotel we settled onto the balustrade and sipped the bubbles while taking in the gondolas and the view. It was great fun and rather romantic. This bridge, features on postcards and in the movie “The Italian Job”.
The plan was to walk around the alleys, bridges and galleries of Venice. First stop was St Marks. Being Sunday morning, the front door was closed to tourists but the side door was open to worshippers. We took in the morning service in this wonderful 600+ year old cathedral. From the floor to the ceiling it is a marvellous combination of architecture and art. Both the priest and the organist were in fine form. We had taken our seats just in time for the offertory hymn. There’s a lesson for sinners !!!
St Marks Plaza is full of shops, offices and galleries. Further out, the alleyways and canals of Venice open a new dimension of wonder. On the way to the Rialto Bridge we passed Trattoria Sempione. Right on the canal in a 900 year building, the window tables of this restaurant caught our eye. On closer inspection there were three window boxes with geraniums overhanging the canal and gondola station. It was superb. Can we book the window for dinner ? No. “You and 400 others want that table. We open at 1840. The first customer in line gets the pick of the tables. The Japanese get in line at 1730 !!”
On to Rialto Bridge, art galleries on each side of the bridge and just one busy photo spot to capture the activity on the Grand Canal. We lined up behind the others and recorded our images of this busy waterway. On through the maze of alleyways, residential units, the fruit and vegetable markets on the canal edge, a few hotels, the odd shop and even a school. The northwest side of the Grand Canal is less commercial than its counterpart on the south.
Weaving our way around the alleyways and small canals, the wonder of spring flowers in window boxes and old doorways down to the water line was to behold. No gondolas on this side of the Grand Canal, all functional craft to move freight and goods. The residents all walk. One was scurrying with a piano accordion over his shoulder. A few canals later he was playing to the café set. One of the three pedestrian bridges over the Grand Canal took us to the rail road station on the commercial and tourist side of Venice.
From the rail station the alleyways are more like malls. Residences give way to shops, cafes and galleries. The rubbish bins have signs advising the number of metres to the next MacDonald’s. We managed to absorb it all; galleries, museums, craft shops and even the entrance to the local casino where we asked to declare our revolvers and pistols. We must have crossed fifty bridges over canals. A truly different day; culture, history and art, from the Guggenheim Collection and mask shops to the New Zealand Trekka. The “Trekka” ?? This was the New Zealand made cross between a Land Rover and the little Czech car driven by Mr Bean. Several hundred were built for the kiwi farmers in the 1960’s. Now billed as a work of art, it is housed in a 16th century church, which made it all the more outrageous and fun.
The mask shops are fascinating with countless varieties of hand crafted masks ready for the winter festivals.
As the sun got lower in the west we took our place at the head of the queue for dinner at Trattoria Sempione. Armed with postcards to write and pre dinner drinks (a couple of cans of Heinecken !) we were in front of the Japanese. At 1840 precisely the window box was ours for dinner. The food and wines were extraordinary. We had the seafood risotto and some local sauvignon blanc; superb. The restaurant had been in operation for the last 300 years with a recent history of operation by seven generations of the one family. A bonus was the close observation of the gondola business in Venice. Right before our eyes we saw the various middle men collect and distribute the day’s takings from the oarsmen. The business of gondolas appears to be exceptionally well regulated !!
Amelfi Coast
The train to Sorrento travels south from Naples past Mt Vesuvius at Pompeii. Most spectacular. Sorrento is the end of the line and the “blue bus” to Positano departs from the station. Wending our way around Sorrento, over the hill and there is the blue water of the Mediterranean. From a range of high mountains the hills plunge steeply to the sea. The slope leaves little room for a road. This stretch of coast line, like Cinque Terra, is spectacular. Fifteen kilometres and thirty five minutes later the bus arrives at Positano. LP says get off at the first stop and walk down the road to our accommodation. Perched on the hill side with extensive views of the Amelfi Coast our “hotel” turns out to be three hundred years old. From the balcony we look past the bougainvillea in full bloom east to Salerno and west to the Isle of Capri. To the south is Africa. Down 200 metres is the harbour for Positano with all manner of craft from the Italian equivalent of a fisherman’s “tinny” to luxury cruise vessels. As the sun sets we talk to the people on the next balcony who are on their way back home to Melbourne. His brother recommended this and they booked some time ago. We found it in the LP and phoned that morning !!
Being a one star hotel, dinner was at the restaurant next door, sitting at one of the street side tables overlooking the sea. The view was great and the pasta marinara superb. The local red was worthy of a mention.
By the time the sun was up we had decided to extend our stay. The Pope could wait a day !! Down to the beach we took the ferry east to Amelfi. The ferry ride was fascinating gliding along in the azure sea with 1,000 metre high hills straight up from the coast.
Amelfi is another wonderful sea side town. Boats, promenades, cafes in centuries old buildings and art and craft stores a plenty. A feature is the local bus ride to the historic village of Raveli. High on the hill it is set amongst magnificent gardens. The ride is an adventure in itself. Darting in and out of old and ancient villages with extraordinary buildings and sweeping views of the Mediterranean we were even treated to a 2,000 year old method of transport: donkeys loaded with modern day bags of cement to carry further up the hill.
Returning to Amelfi we had missed the afternoon ferry. The remaining option was the bus. What a choice !! Although nearly full, we found a seat at the back of the bus. Views were limited but we soon realised this was the ride of our lives. It left the Great Ocean Road from Queenscliffe to Lorne looking like a Sunday School picnic !!
Having checked the bus timetable, next day we took the first ferry to Amelfi so we could return on the 1030 bus in the front seats !! Camera at the ready and with the window cleaned we were away. What a spectacle. Steep cliffs on the sea side with the odd house nestled in amongst the rocks, a swimming pool with the cliff face as one wall and a narrow set of steps carved in the rock for access to the sea. The hill side was equally spectacular. The width of the road varied from narrow to skinny. Frequent stops were encountered to let even motor scooters past. The uphill side was fertile with narrow terraces allowing the growth of grape vines, olive and lemon trees. The eighteen kilometres took an hour.
On arrival in Positano we were in time for the local bus to Nocelle, a small village about five hundred metres up and a kilometre back from the sea. On arrival a short walk on a narrow track took us to the recommended (only) restaurant overlooking ??? Yes the sea !! Wow. The views were superb. Just in front was the vegetable garden with lettuce, zucchini and tomatoes all flourishing, then the grape vines, lemon trees and the sea.
The food was simple but superb. We asked about some local red wine. Although the wine list had bottles from all over Italy, the local wine was served with the comment “my father makes it”.
The return was via 2,000 steps leading straight down to Positano; a pleasant walk.
Rome
Arriving at Rome Central Station we found the recommended one star hotel a few blocks away, just as the LP said. Checking in at noon we were off soon after to make the most of our last afternoon. With bus tickets in hand we set off for St Peters. First stop the Sistine Chapel. A long walk from the bus stop was rewarded with an alcove of extraordinary art before getting to the Chapel itself. Actually it turned out there were twenty alcoves of extraordinary art all relating to the life of Christ before we made it to the Chapel. We were overdosed on culture !!
Then the Sistine Chapel itself. With more archangels than you could imagine covering the ceiling and walls it is truly magnificent.
The return along the west side of the building which has a central garden contains works of art from all areas of Christian history. We did not take the personal guide which was probably just as well as we would still be there !!
From the chapel there is access to the side of St Peters. At the west end of the piazza which is 500 metres across, the basilica towers over the other buildings of the Vatican.
Entering St Peters is breathtaking. The footprint is the size of a football field and with the ceiling fifty metres above the feeling of space is incredible. Built over a150 year time frame from 1506 the basilica replaced the earlier structure which stood from 326. Apart from recognising the engineering feat the art is phenomenal. Stained glass windows above the alter filter the afternoon sun as its rays stream onto the floor beneath the central dome. Walls and ceiling are splashed with all manner of paintings and sculptures. The side wings house prayer rooms and confessional boxes. Although there were hundreds of people from tourists to devout Catholics taking prayers there was no sense of congestion. No wonder, it can hold up to 60,000 worshippers. One side wing houses a small museum filled with art treasures. On the wall a large stone tablet is inscribed with the names of all the Popes since AD 48. The bad news is there is space for only ten more names.
Leaving St Peters the piazza leads to the river. A short walk to the north east through narrow streets past some ritzy shops brought us to the crowded Spanish Steps. No Italians here; rather a cosmopolitan mix of tourists from all corners of the globe.
A short stroll east leads to the Trevi Fountain where it is also difficult to get a spot alongside to throw a coin over the shoulder. After sharing the beauty with thousands of tourists a twenty minute walk saw us overlooking the archaeological site which has uncovered the 2,000 year old relics of the Emperors palaces. Across the road is the Colosseum. Sadly this has not fared nearly as well as the Arena in Verona. Built to the same design much of the Colosseum is not accessible.
As the twilight disappeared we took the bus to our hotel. For our last night in Italy we dined on pasta and pizza with Chianti. The objective was to compare Roman pizza with Napoli pizza to determine if we could detect the differences detailed in the LP. We preferred the thinner bases of the Roman style. The anchovies and olives were common to both !!
What a Wonderful Holiday, an Adventure, A Food lovers Paradise, a Wine Delight,
Easy, Fun, We laughed a lot, and thoroughly enjoyed Ourselves.
Arrivederci.
Arrival into Rome at sunrise was on schedule and the transfer to the train uneventful. With the Lonely Planet (LP) as our trusty guide and camera at the ready we set off for a fortnight in Italy - what fun, pasta, sidewalk coffees, chianti, gelatis, history and culture, all before noon, ha ha ha!!!!,
The broad plan was to have a day in Florence with a mission to replace Jan’s handbag. Then head off through the rolling hills of Tuscany to coastal Cinque Terra, the majestic Lake Como, Dolomites, Venice and on to the Amelfi coast before checking out St Peters and returning home.
Accommodation in Florence was our only booking. Being early September the European holiday rush was over so we were confident of finding places along the way. A combination of web sites, e-mail addresses, phone numbers and the trusty LP guide book plus some rapidly learned local knowledge along the way resulted in an amazing array of accommodations many of which were medieval buildings with breathtaking views of mountains, vineyards, lakes and the sea.
We took the train to Florence then hired a car. With a map of Italy supplementing the LP, our navigator was set for an intense on-the–job training exercise. We dropped the car off in Venice and for the rest of the trip we used trains and buses, which gave our navigator a reprieve, think Peter mentioned 101 Navigation for Girls.
Florence
Travelling north with clear blue sky soon saw us into the Tuscany countryside with endless grapevines manicured into the gently coloured rolling hills and a scattering of delightful villages. A short taxi ride to our vintage B and B by the river just below Michelangelo Plaza and we were into an afternoon of strolling through the narrow streets absorbing the culture. An Italian lunch of scaloppini and pasta complete with Chianti provided energy for the escapade. It was great, we realised ”Wonderful” we are in Italy.
Plazas, Duomo, the statue of David, Ponte Vecchio, the high street shops, art galleries and the river. We saw them all and wondered in the ancient beauty of every building stone, wooden doorway and the rings on the walls where horses were tied.
Being Sunday, Louis Vitton, Bvlgari, Chanel etc on the high street were closed. (How sad !!!!) However the leather shops were all open and ready to receive Jan. All catered for tourists. Some catered for serious handbag shoppers and the owners were quick to identify Jan. Each had a dedicated floor for handbags with 1,500 to 2,000 bags. We looked at the lot !! After checking 15,000 bags I figured we were doomed, but one popped out of the woodwork and it was just right. Well almost, it exceeded the budget by a wide margin; but the option of looking at another 15,000 bags was too daunting. So Jan now has a stylish bag from Florence and is delighted. Mission accomplished!! . Peter was terrific, patient and joined in with the selection. Actually by the third shop, Peter had sorted out the differences with styles, quality and razzle dazzel.
Dinner was pizza in the park by the river just across the square from our room. With a top bottle of Clare Valley Riesling, a treat received en route, we settled down with our goodies on a park bench overlooking the river to Michelangelo Plaza. Out of the blue an Italian Moma MaMia appeared with a table and insisted we use it. Just a taste of the hospitality extended to us throughout our stay. Dinner was great. Then with an early night and a long sleep, we were ready for our Italian Adventure.
Tuscany
Abandoning public transport we picked up a small car and set off on the highways and byways of Tuscany.
First stop was the old walled, car free, city of Sienna. A long narrow winding road up a steep hill led to the car park, then through the pedestrian only gate and a walk along narrow lanes took us past numerous gelatarias in 700 year old buildings to the town plaza. Centuries of history surrounded by stone buildings the elliptical plaza slopes down to an amphitheatre which is now filled daily with tourists. On occasions the local orchestra charms the throng with chamber music and operas
We retraced our steps through the narrow streets and lanes to retrieve the car and move on to San Gimignano, a famous small Tuscan village from medieval times. Another walled car free village on the top of a hill, we were permitted to drive through the narrow streets and gates to drop our luggage off at the hotel door. The car park is on the side of a hill and a set of stairs took us back to the narrow pathways which all wind up to the central plaza.
Several hundreds of years old, the hotel is in the town square by the well. We picked it from the Lonely Planet and made the reservation by e-mail!!! There was an unexpected “wow factor” when we opened the shutters !! The vista was vineyards and soft rolling hills away to the horizon, just like the postcards. We knew we were in Tuscany. From the end of the corridor another window looked over the village wall, across the fertile valleys to the distant mountains.
From a small café in the plaza and sipping an espresso (great coffee) we soaked up the atmosphere of the towers and arches of this medieval village as the sun set. Then off down the alleyways to the recommended restaurant for some local delicacies and wines. Following a glass of top local spumante we had the wild boar with onions and the duck with potatoes. Chianti from the neighbouring valley was the choice. Our taste buds were tantalised.
Next morning we were up early and walked around the lanes and pathways to the top of the wall. The narrow vertical slots used to shoot arrows at invaders provided an interesting view of the Tuscan countryside with grapevines, olive trees, cut hay and some ploughed fields. As the village came to life vans delivered their provisions to the various shops and restaurants. By far the largest was the gelati truck. How the driver navigated the narrow lanes and gates is beyond belief. As the hordes of day tourists ascended the pathways we moved on.
Cinque Terra
Travelling west to the coast near Pisa we traded the byways for the autostrade to La Spieza and then back onto narrow lanes to the “Cinque Terra”, one of the most amazing parts of the world. A travel article described it as having one of the global top ten walks. The Lonely Planet confirmed it as an area of fascination and intrigue dating back a millenium. We were not disappointed. Spread along 25 kilometres of coast line 100 km east of Genoa there are five villages on the sea and hundreds of acres of terraced vineyards on the steep slopes of the 500 metre high hillsides. A walking track links the villages as does the main train line from Genoa to Florence and local ferries. Most of the trail line is in tunnels. Express train riders see nothing of the area. A local train takes tourists from one village to the next and we used this to return from a walk and a ferry ride.
Originally settled a thousand years ago the villages were built on what little flat land could be found with some form of port to provide access by sea. The terraced vineyards came in the 1500’s.
We opted to take the LP recommendation and stay at Vernazza, the smallest and most attractive of the five towns, another car free village. Population 1100. Arriving late in the afternoon and with the LP advice that there were many rooms available to rent we rang a few doorbells and managed to find a room in the centre of the village opposite the bakery. Quite spacious and clean it was at the top of 48 steep steps, cash only and run by Ticco, who turned to be one of Vernazza’a colourful businessmen. The village is right on the sea with a small harbour and beach and about a 100 square meter patch of flat ground. The old buildings are all several storeys high, full of steep steps and perched on the steeper hill side around the sea. Following drinks on a rock at sun set we dined on the freshest seafood and pasta, with local red wine. Superb.
Next morning we were up at sunrise and walked the 5 km from Vernazza to Cornoglio. From the village square we climbed hundreds of steps to the start of the track. Along and upward, past cliffs and steep hillsides with terraced vineyards, olive trees and tomato plants the views up and down the coast were superb in the early morning light. Past a remote farmhouse where the owners were on the balcony meditating as they gazed over the Mediterranean Sea. From a high point of 250 meters the track began to descend to the village and down to the rail track. After a two hour walk we arrived in time for the 0830 train with a 3 minute ride back to Vernazza and breakfast. Then a ferry ride to Riomagglio, the fifth village. The views of the terraced hillsides and old villages are splendid. No wonder the walk is rated as one of the ten best. The village harbour shelters the local fishing fleet and the odd luxury boat, and is surrounded by the village square and some art galleries (where the order of the day was: check our website and yes we deliver to anywhere in the world !!). The walk along the cliff track back to Manorola is called Lovers Lane and is worthy of its rating as one of the best walks. This track rises only 50 metres above the sea and is no more than 10 metres back from the shore line, an indication of the steepness of the cliff line. The lunch spot was on a table cantilevered out over the azure sea. We took the train back to Vernazza and were intrigued to see a musician complete with double bass. It turned out he, the violinist and clarinet player were travelling minstrels and spent the afternoon in Vernazza entertaining diners at the various outdoor restaurants and cafes.
Lake Como
The autostrasse to Genoa was exciting as lack of land dictated a narrow road width. Slow moving trucks filled the outer lane and keeping up with the cars on the inner lane meant taking on the role of a formula one driver. Views were minimal as most of the time is in tunnels. Bypass Genoa and over the hills (more tunnels) and onto the plains for a more relaxed but nevertheless speedy ride on the wider road to Lake Como. The LP recommended the west side of the lake and one of the smaller towns. We chose Menaggio. This turned out a good decision as all the road signs mentioned this town. However the road along the lake is no highway. It hardly passes as a byway. A narrow winding road through many small towns and villages it did not take long to put the adventure back into motoring. From time to time the road got even narrower and avoiding contact with vehicles going in the opposite direction required more nerve than skill.
About half way along Lake Como, Menaggio is a picturesque town right on the lake with a backdrop of steep hills. Across the lake the mountains of the Dolomites beckon. We walked along the foreshore to seek some accommodation. The five star Grand Hotel with its magnificent gardens and opulent verandahs looked full so we pressed on. Opposite the jetty was a charming hotel (2 star) with a vacancy sign. Yes there was a room with a balcony overlooking the lake. Wonderful. Settled in and with a few drinks on the balcony the sunset was great. Next morning the lake was calm and truly majestic. Fisherman casting rods and ferrymen getting their vessels fired up for the day amid energetic locals exercising and tourists just taking it all in. The walkway behind the hotel had a stone tablet on the wall which was inscribed some time in the first century. Mounted on the ancient church wall we reflected on the Roman history.
The steep rocky hillsides behind Menaggio are topped with grass meadows and grazing cattle. Small villages are perched up high, each complete with its own church.
Dolomites
With Lake Como in the rear view mirror, we took the right hand option at the junction to St Moritz, which was 50 km to the north. Upward and eastward we ascended into the ski towns located at various passes in the Dolomites. The mountains reach another 1,000 meters through the glaciers to the sky. Numerous ski lifts from tee bars to cable cars had all slopes covered. The runs were mostly blue and black and looked good. With the scarcity of pink runs, Jan was somewhat relieved it was summer time.
Countless hairpin bends and several spectacular valleys later we arrived at the town of Madonna di Campiglio. Recommended by the LP this most spectacular village hosted the World Ski Championships some years ago. With assistance from the local Alpine office we had a guide to the walks and accommodation in the village. A reconnoitre of two laps around the village let us suss out our first pick, a nice Tyrollean style pension near to the town centre. Knocked on the door and yes, one night is fine. We settled in and had a few drinks on the balcony watching the sun set on the 3,000 meter peaks across the valley and above the pine trees. Even at the end of summer the town was busy.
Next morning after a hearty breakfast we were ready to tackle a walk in the Dolomites. The weather was inclement. Undaunted we set off and took the gondola car to the top of the first level, about 700 meters above the village. We chose to walk down the south side track and absorb the mountain vistas.
Clouds swept in and views became infrequent. When we did get a break it was all worthwhile. The rocky upper slopes start at the base of the cliffs then turn into grassed meadows of the alp which down lower gives way to pine trees.
Over one crest the sounds of 100 bells rang out, each with a different pitch and each attached to the neck of a cow. The herd was relocating to greener pastures. The track swung around and the village came into view at the base of the valley; quite spectacular. We pressed on down the steep track through pine tree glades, over small creeks and grateful we had taken the gondola car to the top.
Verona
The LP had interesting comments about Verona, a retreat for Romans two millenniums ago. Stay in the centre it said and even recommended “a place”. So we followed the signs to “centro”, parked the car and found “the place”. But alas, no rooms. Plan B was the local hotel booking agency across from the Arena. We managed to get a small room in a hotel just outside the city wall.
On check in the receptionist enquired if we had come for the opera at the Arena. No wonder the town was booked out. There was nothing in the LP about the opera. However the courtesy bus was leaving in 40 minutes and the receptionist was confident we could get tickets. So, opera it was.
Cleaned up and on the bus for the 2 km ride to the city centre; we found the ticket office in the lower level of the Arena and managed two unreserved seats on the stepping stones. Start time was in 20 minutes. Assured we could get some dinner inside we were advised to take our seats.
What an amazing place. Built 2,000 years ago, but unlike the Colosseum, the Arena is in pristine condition and is used each year for the Opera season. Running from June through August about four Operas are performed five nights a week.
Tonight was Carmen. We were shown to places on the second but top row of stepping stones. Each step is about half a meter high and our seats are fifty meters above the stage. The base of the Arena is the size of a football field and the outer perimeter is similar in size to modern day stadiums. All built without cranes, hard hats or shop stewards !! A fellow came around with a bucket full of rolls and beer. We took a ham roll and two cans of Fosters. Yes, Fosters !!
With the twilight gone and a full house, the orchestra commenced the overture and the show began. A cast of hundreds including horses and donkeys were in fine form under the stars. The acoustics were great. Apart from the odd plane returning on the home track just overhead there were no interferences.
Venice
Dropped the car off and walked across the plaza to the ferry terminal. We took the 90 minute Grand Canal option to travel to St Mark’s Square.
With all stops and a slow ride between each wharf we had plenty of time to absorb the activity on and about the Grand Canal. Old warehouses, hotels, art galleries, churches, the markets and all manner of watercraft from luxury speedboats to barges, ferries and gondolas galore made for a scenic and interesting ride which took well over an hour.
Disembarking at St Marks a stroll across the crowded square led to our hotel just one laneway back from the cathedral and next to MacDonald’s!! A small one star hotel with a newly renovated air conditioned room, we found it fine. One star means no eating facilities so we dined out for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Being in the heart of tourist Venice we were not far from the crowds during the day, but by evening the neighbourhood was superb. Cafes and restaurants abound as do small hotels, Venetian glass and art galleries plus honest looking African men selling “Luis Vitton” bags from fold-up quick get away sheets. The prices asked were a lot lower than we saw in the High Street. It’s a mystery !!!
This evening we took a chilled bottle of Charles Heidseck to the Ponte dei Sospiri, a delightful bridge behind St Marks. Armed with a slice of pizza and some glasses borrowed from the hotel we settled onto the balustrade and sipped the bubbles while taking in the gondolas and the view. It was great fun and rather romantic. This bridge, features on postcards and in the movie “The Italian Job”.
The plan was to walk around the alleys, bridges and galleries of Venice. First stop was St Marks. Being Sunday morning, the front door was closed to tourists but the side door was open to worshippers. We took in the morning service in this wonderful 600+ year old cathedral. From the floor to the ceiling it is a marvellous combination of architecture and art. Both the priest and the organist were in fine form. We had taken our seats just in time for the offertory hymn. There’s a lesson for sinners !!!
St Marks Plaza is full of shops, offices and galleries. Further out, the alleyways and canals of Venice open a new dimension of wonder. On the way to the Rialto Bridge we passed Trattoria Sempione. Right on the canal in a 900 year building, the window tables of this restaurant caught our eye. On closer inspection there were three window boxes with geraniums overhanging the canal and gondola station. It was superb. Can we book the window for dinner ? No. “You and 400 others want that table. We open at 1840. The first customer in line gets the pick of the tables. The Japanese get in line at 1730 !!”
On to Rialto Bridge, art galleries on each side of the bridge and just one busy photo spot to capture the activity on the Grand Canal. We lined up behind the others and recorded our images of this busy waterway. On through the maze of alleyways, residential units, the fruit and vegetable markets on the canal edge, a few hotels, the odd shop and even a school. The northwest side of the Grand Canal is less commercial than its counterpart on the south.
Weaving our way around the alleyways and small canals, the wonder of spring flowers in window boxes and old doorways down to the water line was to behold. No gondolas on this side of the Grand Canal, all functional craft to move freight and goods. The residents all walk. One was scurrying with a piano accordion over his shoulder. A few canals later he was playing to the café set. One of the three pedestrian bridges over the Grand Canal took us to the rail road station on the commercial and tourist side of Venice.
From the rail station the alleyways are more like malls. Residences give way to shops, cafes and galleries. The rubbish bins have signs advising the number of metres to the next MacDonald’s. We managed to absorb it all; galleries, museums, craft shops and even the entrance to the local casino where we asked to declare our revolvers and pistols. We must have crossed fifty bridges over canals. A truly different day; culture, history and art, from the Guggenheim Collection and mask shops to the New Zealand Trekka. The “Trekka” ?? This was the New Zealand made cross between a Land Rover and the little Czech car driven by Mr Bean. Several hundred were built for the kiwi farmers in the 1960’s. Now billed as a work of art, it is housed in a 16th century church, which made it all the more outrageous and fun.
The mask shops are fascinating with countless varieties of hand crafted masks ready for the winter festivals.
As the sun got lower in the west we took our place at the head of the queue for dinner at Trattoria Sempione. Armed with postcards to write and pre dinner drinks (a couple of cans of Heinecken !) we were in front of the Japanese. At 1840 precisely the window box was ours for dinner. The food and wines were extraordinary. We had the seafood risotto and some local sauvignon blanc; superb. The restaurant had been in operation for the last 300 years with a recent history of operation by seven generations of the one family. A bonus was the close observation of the gondola business in Venice. Right before our eyes we saw the various middle men collect and distribute the day’s takings from the oarsmen. The business of gondolas appears to be exceptionally well regulated !!
Amelfi Coast
The train to Sorrento travels south from Naples past Mt Vesuvius at Pompeii. Most spectacular. Sorrento is the end of the line and the “blue bus” to Positano departs from the station. Wending our way around Sorrento, over the hill and there is the blue water of the Mediterranean. From a range of high mountains the hills plunge steeply to the sea. The slope leaves little room for a road. This stretch of coast line, like Cinque Terra, is spectacular. Fifteen kilometres and thirty five minutes later the bus arrives at Positano. LP says get off at the first stop and walk down the road to our accommodation. Perched on the hill side with extensive views of the Amelfi Coast our “hotel” turns out to be three hundred years old. From the balcony we look past the bougainvillea in full bloom east to Salerno and west to the Isle of Capri. To the south is Africa. Down 200 metres is the harbour for Positano with all manner of craft from the Italian equivalent of a fisherman’s “tinny” to luxury cruise vessels. As the sun sets we talk to the people on the next balcony who are on their way back home to Melbourne. His brother recommended this and they booked some time ago. We found it in the LP and phoned that morning !!
Being a one star hotel, dinner was at the restaurant next door, sitting at one of the street side tables overlooking the sea. The view was great and the pasta marinara superb. The local red was worthy of a mention.
By the time the sun was up we had decided to extend our stay. The Pope could wait a day !! Down to the beach we took the ferry east to Amelfi. The ferry ride was fascinating gliding along in the azure sea with 1,000 metre high hills straight up from the coast.
Amelfi is another wonderful sea side town. Boats, promenades, cafes in centuries old buildings and art and craft stores a plenty. A feature is the local bus ride to the historic village of Raveli. High on the hill it is set amongst magnificent gardens. The ride is an adventure in itself. Darting in and out of old and ancient villages with extraordinary buildings and sweeping views of the Mediterranean we were even treated to a 2,000 year old method of transport: donkeys loaded with modern day bags of cement to carry further up the hill.
Returning to Amelfi we had missed the afternoon ferry. The remaining option was the bus. What a choice !! Although nearly full, we found a seat at the back of the bus. Views were limited but we soon realised this was the ride of our lives. It left the Great Ocean Road from Queenscliffe to Lorne looking like a Sunday School picnic !!
Having checked the bus timetable, next day we took the first ferry to Amelfi so we could return on the 1030 bus in the front seats !! Camera at the ready and with the window cleaned we were away. What a spectacle. Steep cliffs on the sea side with the odd house nestled in amongst the rocks, a swimming pool with the cliff face as one wall and a narrow set of steps carved in the rock for access to the sea. The hill side was equally spectacular. The width of the road varied from narrow to skinny. Frequent stops were encountered to let even motor scooters past. The uphill side was fertile with narrow terraces allowing the growth of grape vines, olive and lemon trees. The eighteen kilometres took an hour.
On arrival in Positano we were in time for the local bus to Nocelle, a small village about five hundred metres up and a kilometre back from the sea. On arrival a short walk on a narrow track took us to the recommended (only) restaurant overlooking ??? Yes the sea !! Wow. The views were superb. Just in front was the vegetable garden with lettuce, zucchini and tomatoes all flourishing, then the grape vines, lemon trees and the sea.
The food was simple but superb. We asked about some local red wine. Although the wine list had bottles from all over Italy, the local wine was served with the comment “my father makes it”.
The return was via 2,000 steps leading straight down to Positano; a pleasant walk.
Rome
Arriving at Rome Central Station we found the recommended one star hotel a few blocks away, just as the LP said. Checking in at noon we were off soon after to make the most of our last afternoon. With bus tickets in hand we set off for St Peters. First stop the Sistine Chapel. A long walk from the bus stop was rewarded with an alcove of extraordinary art before getting to the Chapel itself. Actually it turned out there were twenty alcoves of extraordinary art all relating to the life of Christ before we made it to the Chapel. We were overdosed on culture !!
Then the Sistine Chapel itself. With more archangels than you could imagine covering the ceiling and walls it is truly magnificent.
The return along the west side of the building which has a central garden contains works of art from all areas of Christian history. We did not take the personal guide which was probably just as well as we would still be there !!
From the chapel there is access to the side of St Peters. At the west end of the piazza which is 500 metres across, the basilica towers over the other buildings of the Vatican.
Entering St Peters is breathtaking. The footprint is the size of a football field and with the ceiling fifty metres above the feeling of space is incredible. Built over a150 year time frame from 1506 the basilica replaced the earlier structure which stood from 326. Apart from recognising the engineering feat the art is phenomenal. Stained glass windows above the alter filter the afternoon sun as its rays stream onto the floor beneath the central dome. Walls and ceiling are splashed with all manner of paintings and sculptures. The side wings house prayer rooms and confessional boxes. Although there were hundreds of people from tourists to devout Catholics taking prayers there was no sense of congestion. No wonder, it can hold up to 60,000 worshippers. One side wing houses a small museum filled with art treasures. On the wall a large stone tablet is inscribed with the names of all the Popes since AD 48. The bad news is there is space for only ten more names.
Leaving St Peters the piazza leads to the river. A short walk to the north east through narrow streets past some ritzy shops brought us to the crowded Spanish Steps. No Italians here; rather a cosmopolitan mix of tourists from all corners of the globe.
A short stroll east leads to the Trevi Fountain where it is also difficult to get a spot alongside to throw a coin over the shoulder. After sharing the beauty with thousands of tourists a twenty minute walk saw us overlooking the archaeological site which has uncovered the 2,000 year old relics of the Emperors palaces. Across the road is the Colosseum. Sadly this has not fared nearly as well as the Arena in Verona. Built to the same design much of the Colosseum is not accessible.
As the twilight disappeared we took the bus to our hotel. For our last night in Italy we dined on pasta and pizza with Chianti. The objective was to compare Roman pizza with Napoli pizza to determine if we could detect the differences detailed in the LP. We preferred the thinner bases of the Roman style. The anchovies and olives were common to both !!
What a Wonderful Holiday, an Adventure, A Food lovers Paradise, a Wine Delight,
Easy, Fun, We laughed a lot, and thoroughly enjoyed Ourselves.
Arrivederci.
posted by PC and JT at 3:47 pm
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