TURKEY, A LAND OF CHOICES
What would attract you to an adventure in Turkey? Would it be?
∑ Turkish Architecture, Imperial mosques, Ottoman mansions and palaces
∑ Ancient Cities, strolling among Greek and Roman archaeological sites
∑ Museums housing Byzantine icons, Ottoman calligraphy, Turkish folklore
∑ Hiking along the Black sea, the surreal valleys of Cappadocia
∑ Cave churches around Goreme
∑ Skiing in the mountains of eastern Turkey
∑ Marine cruising, travelling in a gullet – a traditional Turkish motor-sailer
∑ Keyf the Turkish art of quiet relaxation.
∑ Hamams, the Turkish bathhouses direct successors of the roman steam baths of two millennia ago
∑ Enjoying the 7000km of coastline, bays and inlets the Aegean and Mediterranean waters
∑ Browsing through the 4000 shops in Istanbul’s Kapali Carsi
Architecture, History, Exploring and lots of Keyf; let the adventure begin.
Today Istanbul’s skyline is a fusion of present and past fringing the Bosphorus with Old Istanbul containing a treasure cache of Palaces, mosques and museums, all world renowned, enticing international tourists.
Sultanahmet with its Ottoman houses, mansions and historic buildings was where we established ourselves to explore the riches of the city. It is around the corner from the Golden Horn, a historic harbour which houses the freshest seafood markets and restaurants, just hours from sea to plate. Here we met the first of many interesting characters; George from Georgia who organised the best table in the closest restaurant to the Sea of Marmara, so close we could taste the salty spray from the trawlers on their way to work. The owner introduced himself as Ali Baba, true story. George also tried to extend some local cheers to us at 10 in the morning by offering a glass of Raki, he suggested it had great medicinal properties, but George didn’t look much like a doctor.
A local ferry ride up the Bosphorus, towards the Golden Gate look a like bridge that joins European to Asian shores was our exploring choice. Crossing over to Asia at Uskudar we wandered through local markets. Sampling Turkish delight was a delight. There were dozens of variations, we preferred the traditional. The fruit and veg were garden-fresh, crisp and enticing. Turk’s seldom eat frozen food, with so much fresh produce around why buy second-hand! There was little evidence of genetic engineering in the fruit. Except for a new watermelon where the seeds have been crossed with ants; when you cut it open the seeds run away. Bingo: seedless watermelon!!! (George from Georgia told us this one.)
Our time in Istanbul was limited, so we caught taxis everywhere. Turkish Taxi Drivers are a capricious group of people; we decided to group them into “the 40 thieves”. Guess we looked new to town! They certainly did not reflect the everyday Turk. We found the Turkish people warm, friendly and generous; always a smile and a delightful sense of humour.
The Kariye Museum found off the tourist path and little known, was a notable find. Originally the Church of the Holy Savoir, it was erected in the 5th century and now houses stunning 14th century mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical scenes from Adam to the life of Christ. Domed Byzantine paintings that glow adorn the interiors, intricate details, radiant pigments, they dazzle the eye; and enrich the heart and soul.
This tourism business is hard work, nothing like a nice cup of apple tea. The Pera Palais offered a historic and nostalgic spot for a cuppa. The hotel was built to accommodate guests arriving on the Orient Express, carried to the hotel by sedan chairs no less. The guest list is a repertoire of who’s who; room 411 was where Agatha Christie wrote, “Murder on the Orient Express”. Mata Hari strutted her stuff and Mustapha Kemal Ataturk’s room 101 has been converted into a Museum. Ataturk became Turkey’s first president when he overthrew the Ottoman Empire in 1924. Capturing the faded opulence of a rich past today the art deco interiors and original elevator exude a tangible aura of escapism.
With Independence came a 25 year ban on the practice of “The Whirling Dervishes”. The mystical sect of Islam, Sufism has been practiced for nearly 700 years. Mevlana the master- believed whirling and circling created a union with God that could induce a trancelike state of universal love. We saw the Sema, the whirling dance, communing with their faith; the believers dressed in white flowing robes and fess hats.
Breakfast from the balcony of our hotel previewed the Sultan Ahmet Camii – the Blue Mosque. The mosque’s vantage position dominates over the city. The blue of the mosque’s name comes from the Iznil tiles, which contour the domes. Access of choice is via the Hippodrome which contains an Obelisk brought from Aswan 3000 year ago, an unexpected sight; Egypt in the heart of Istanbul. Climbing the stairs, the mosque’s many domes and minarets come into view, a path to spiritual heaven harmonious lines in true Ottoman style.
Superb examples of Ottoman houses lovingly restored: ornately carved ceilings, tiered levels, segregated sections adorned with fabrics, textiles and tiles, we left behind as we journeyed to Kutahya in the north Aegean region of Turkey. It was around the 1500’s that Kutahya’s tile making industry fired up. There are 3 general grades of work; the lowest is Turist isi or tourist work, then Fabrika isi (apprentices’ work) and Ozel isi (the Master’s work). We enjoyed Keyf in a hot springs resort in the foothills; great in summer but frozen in winter.
Still in the north Aegean, Eskisehir is a modern city with trams; waterways and an energized buzz. Many travellers come to Eskisehir to purchase meerschaum, a soft material – German for sea foam, Iuletasi in Turkish. Meerschaum is used for carving, with pipes being the most popular design. Devotees even wear gloves when smoking their pipes to prevent them from being tarnished by skin oils.
One of our choices led us to Konya in South Central Anatolia, regarded as the breadbasket of Turkey. The home of the Whirling Dervish is the Mevlana Museum, a holy site. Omar Khayyam the noted Poet came from this region. South east of Konya lies Catgal Hoyuk discovered by the British archaeologist James Mellaart in the 1960’s and proclaimed to be the world’s oldest known human community. The evidence of a civilisation 9,000 years ago makes the Pharaohs of Egypt youngsters.
Trekking in the outskirts of Konya through pine forests, glimpsing distant snow peaks, up hill and down dale. Sharing the location with sheep farmers and their fierce guard dogs armed with barbwire collars and ferocious barks. Their role is to protect the sheep against wolves. We passed gypsy camps made of fabric, toured through old villages where only the men were to be seen, drinking Turkish tea or selling wild mushrooms.
My choices took me to the region of Cappadocia in Central Anatolia, an area of about 50 square miles, transiting along wind swept topography and undulating grasslands with snow capped mountain ranges on the distant earth line then into a terrestrial universe of shapes, shades and surfaces. I experienced sensory overload. Centuries of nature’s erosion have sculpted the soft volcanic tufa cones into minarets, rocky pinnacles, spires and fairy chimneys; shades of creams, pinks and milk coffee browns, the tufa soar as high as 5 stories. In the Valley of the Fairy Chimneys, tufa cones are topped with flattish darker stones that resemble hats angled with attitude as if to say “look at me”. The wind playing around the cones felt like fairy dust; there was magic in nature’s genius.
Goreme is some 250 kilometres east from Konya. Walking is a feature of the region. The awe-inspiring valleys around Goreme and Zelve settings not easily forgotten as they bewitch you, open-air museums and national parks all come under the UNESCO heritage umbrella. It is not hard to understand why this is a special place
Ancient inhabitants hollowed out the cones and cliffs and created troglodyte style caves that resemble honeycomb; they are still lived in today. Further south are the primordial underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, 8 levels deep and as you go down it is like entering a huge and complex earth toned Swiss cheese.
Cappodocia was on a major trade route and was home to a dozen civilizations. Early Christians arrived in the 4th century and sculpted rock domed churches with vaulted ceilings and pews; it is said there was once more than 400 churches, some with a rich bonanza of Byzantine frescoes. When invaders struck the Christians simply rolled stones across the entrances and moved underground.
Returning to above ground we ran out of time but not choices. Turkey is tourism must see with even more choices than the introduction suggests.
∑ Turkish Architecture, Imperial mosques, Ottoman mansions and palaces
∑ Ancient Cities, strolling among Greek and Roman archaeological sites
∑ Museums housing Byzantine icons, Ottoman calligraphy, Turkish folklore
∑ Hiking along the Black sea, the surreal valleys of Cappadocia
∑ Cave churches around Goreme
∑ Skiing in the mountains of eastern Turkey
∑ Marine cruising, travelling in a gullet – a traditional Turkish motor-sailer
∑ Keyf the Turkish art of quiet relaxation.
∑ Hamams, the Turkish bathhouses direct successors of the roman steam baths of two millennia ago
∑ Enjoying the 7000km of coastline, bays and inlets the Aegean and Mediterranean waters
∑ Browsing through the 4000 shops in Istanbul’s Kapali Carsi
Architecture, History, Exploring and lots of Keyf; let the adventure begin.
Today Istanbul’s skyline is a fusion of present and past fringing the Bosphorus with Old Istanbul containing a treasure cache of Palaces, mosques and museums, all world renowned, enticing international tourists.
Sultanahmet with its Ottoman houses, mansions and historic buildings was where we established ourselves to explore the riches of the city. It is around the corner from the Golden Horn, a historic harbour which houses the freshest seafood markets and restaurants, just hours from sea to plate. Here we met the first of many interesting characters; George from Georgia who organised the best table in the closest restaurant to the Sea of Marmara, so close we could taste the salty spray from the trawlers on their way to work. The owner introduced himself as Ali Baba, true story. George also tried to extend some local cheers to us at 10 in the morning by offering a glass of Raki, he suggested it had great medicinal properties, but George didn’t look much like a doctor.
A local ferry ride up the Bosphorus, towards the Golden Gate look a like bridge that joins European to Asian shores was our exploring choice. Crossing over to Asia at Uskudar we wandered through local markets. Sampling Turkish delight was a delight. There were dozens of variations, we preferred the traditional. The fruit and veg were garden-fresh, crisp and enticing. Turk’s seldom eat frozen food, with so much fresh produce around why buy second-hand! There was little evidence of genetic engineering in the fruit. Except for a new watermelon where the seeds have been crossed with ants; when you cut it open the seeds run away. Bingo: seedless watermelon!!! (George from Georgia told us this one.)
Our time in Istanbul was limited, so we caught taxis everywhere. Turkish Taxi Drivers are a capricious group of people; we decided to group them into “the 40 thieves”. Guess we looked new to town! They certainly did not reflect the everyday Turk. We found the Turkish people warm, friendly and generous; always a smile and a delightful sense of humour.
The Kariye Museum found off the tourist path and little known, was a notable find. Originally the Church of the Holy Savoir, it was erected in the 5th century and now houses stunning 14th century mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical scenes from Adam to the life of Christ. Domed Byzantine paintings that glow adorn the interiors, intricate details, radiant pigments, they dazzle the eye; and enrich the heart and soul.
This tourism business is hard work, nothing like a nice cup of apple tea. The Pera Palais offered a historic and nostalgic spot for a cuppa. The hotel was built to accommodate guests arriving on the Orient Express, carried to the hotel by sedan chairs no less. The guest list is a repertoire of who’s who; room 411 was where Agatha Christie wrote, “Murder on the Orient Express”. Mata Hari strutted her stuff and Mustapha Kemal Ataturk’s room 101 has been converted into a Museum. Ataturk became Turkey’s first president when he overthrew the Ottoman Empire in 1924. Capturing the faded opulence of a rich past today the art deco interiors and original elevator exude a tangible aura of escapism.
With Independence came a 25 year ban on the practice of “The Whirling Dervishes”. The mystical sect of Islam, Sufism has been practiced for nearly 700 years. Mevlana the master- believed whirling and circling created a union with God that could induce a trancelike state of universal love. We saw the Sema, the whirling dance, communing with their faith; the believers dressed in white flowing robes and fess hats.
Breakfast from the balcony of our hotel previewed the Sultan Ahmet Camii – the Blue Mosque. The mosque’s vantage position dominates over the city. The blue of the mosque’s name comes from the Iznil tiles, which contour the domes. Access of choice is via the Hippodrome which contains an Obelisk brought from Aswan 3000 year ago, an unexpected sight; Egypt in the heart of Istanbul. Climbing the stairs, the mosque’s many domes and minarets come into view, a path to spiritual heaven harmonious lines in true Ottoman style.
Superb examples of Ottoman houses lovingly restored: ornately carved ceilings, tiered levels, segregated sections adorned with fabrics, textiles and tiles, we left behind as we journeyed to Kutahya in the north Aegean region of Turkey. It was around the 1500’s that Kutahya’s tile making industry fired up. There are 3 general grades of work; the lowest is Turist isi or tourist work, then Fabrika isi (apprentices’ work) and Ozel isi (the Master’s work). We enjoyed Keyf in a hot springs resort in the foothills; great in summer but frozen in winter.
Still in the north Aegean, Eskisehir is a modern city with trams; waterways and an energized buzz. Many travellers come to Eskisehir to purchase meerschaum, a soft material – German for sea foam, Iuletasi in Turkish. Meerschaum is used for carving, with pipes being the most popular design. Devotees even wear gloves when smoking their pipes to prevent them from being tarnished by skin oils.
One of our choices led us to Konya in South Central Anatolia, regarded as the breadbasket of Turkey. The home of the Whirling Dervish is the Mevlana Museum, a holy site. Omar Khayyam the noted Poet came from this region. South east of Konya lies Catgal Hoyuk discovered by the British archaeologist James Mellaart in the 1960’s and proclaimed to be the world’s oldest known human community. The evidence of a civilisation 9,000 years ago makes the Pharaohs of Egypt youngsters.
Trekking in the outskirts of Konya through pine forests, glimpsing distant snow peaks, up hill and down dale. Sharing the location with sheep farmers and their fierce guard dogs armed with barbwire collars and ferocious barks. Their role is to protect the sheep against wolves. We passed gypsy camps made of fabric, toured through old villages where only the men were to be seen, drinking Turkish tea or selling wild mushrooms.
My choices took me to the region of Cappadocia in Central Anatolia, an area of about 50 square miles, transiting along wind swept topography and undulating grasslands with snow capped mountain ranges on the distant earth line then into a terrestrial universe of shapes, shades and surfaces. I experienced sensory overload. Centuries of nature’s erosion have sculpted the soft volcanic tufa cones into minarets, rocky pinnacles, spires and fairy chimneys; shades of creams, pinks and milk coffee browns, the tufa soar as high as 5 stories. In the Valley of the Fairy Chimneys, tufa cones are topped with flattish darker stones that resemble hats angled with attitude as if to say “look at me”. The wind playing around the cones felt like fairy dust; there was magic in nature’s genius.
Goreme is some 250 kilometres east from Konya. Walking is a feature of the region. The awe-inspiring valleys around Goreme and Zelve settings not easily forgotten as they bewitch you, open-air museums and national parks all come under the UNESCO heritage umbrella. It is not hard to understand why this is a special place
Ancient inhabitants hollowed out the cones and cliffs and created troglodyte style caves that resemble honeycomb; they are still lived in today. Further south are the primordial underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, 8 levels deep and as you go down it is like entering a huge and complex earth toned Swiss cheese.
Cappodocia was on a major trade route and was home to a dozen civilizations. Early Christians arrived in the 4th century and sculpted rock domed churches with vaulted ceilings and pews; it is said there was once more than 400 churches, some with a rich bonanza of Byzantine frescoes. When invaders struck the Christians simply rolled stones across the entrances and moved underground.
Returning to above ground we ran out of time but not choices. Turkey is tourism must see with even more choices than the introduction suggests.
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